#ROCK CLIMBING ATC BELAY DEVICE FRICTION HOW TO#

The Black Diamond ATC’s straightforward design makes it easy to use, familiar to the majority of climbers, and simple to double-check before climbing. Pros: The ATC’s long history and universality have helped make it one of the most affordable and widely available belay devices. Over its approximately thirty-year life, the ATC has undergone relatively few changes, most notably shedding some weight and spawning different versions like the ATC-XP which features high-friction grooves for more stopping power and the ATC Guide (more on that soon). Credit: Ashley Peck Black Diamond ATCīlack Diamond released the original Air Traffic Controller-better known as the ATC-three decades ago. Keep reading if you’re wondering what the right belay device is for you as we examine the pros and cons of some of the most popular belay devices on the wall, at the crag, and in the gym. While many of the devices on the market share similar characteristics-namely catching falling climbers-there are a number of features that distinguish one device from another. Climbers today have a bounty of belay devices to choose from, ranging from traditional tube-style devices to more modern assisted-braking devices. If you have any questions, check us out online at or swing by the climbing department at our store and talk to a staff member about which belay device might be right for you.A belay device is an essential piece of rock climbing equipment and often one of the first pieces of gear acquired by new climbers. It's important to choose the one that you think will work the best for you. Some orient themselves differently on the wall. Some have small ridges that add friction into the system. Each one has different features and is made of different materials.

There are a multitude of belay devices on the market. Even though it seems like the device might be holding the entire weight of the climber it is still important that you always have your hand on the brake strand of the rope when belaying. When the GRIGRI is weighted, friction locks up the cam and pinches the brake strand of the rope. This is a fully assisted auto-locking belay device with a moving cam. A good example of this is the GRIGRI from Petzl.

The last style is the auto-locking belay device.

These are often lightweight and relatively inexpensive.

The shape of these devices is designed in such a way that when placed under weight they lock the rope and can then released by tilting the device upwards. These include the Mammut Smart, the Edelrid Jul 2, and the Edelrid Megajul. This style of belay device works on the same friction principles as the standard tuber but incorporates some form of assisted locking feature. If you're going to be rappelling you'll want a device that has two tubes, one for either strand of the rope so that you can rappel safely. These are utilized during multi-pitch climbs. These devices are going to have an extra loop on either side so that you can hang the device from the wall and belay in guide mode. This includes belay devices like the ATC Guide and the Petzl Reverso 4. One step up, in this same category, are devices that can be configured for guide mode. These are generally the most affordable belay devices and start at around $18.00. They do a great job assisting by adding friction into the system that allows you to safely catch and lower your climber.

The second hole is utilized while rappelling. These devices are typically going to have two holes, although you'll only use one when belaying a lead climber on top rope.

#ROCK CLIMBING ATC BELAY DEVICE FRICTION HOW TO#

SHOP BELAY DEVICES How to choose the belay device that's right for you.īelay devices are necessary for all styles of rock climbing, but the type of belay device that you need is going to differ depending on where you're climbing and the type of climbing that you're doing, be it in the gym, outdoors, or multi-pitch.īelay devices can basically be broken down into three major categories.Ī standard tuber device which has one or two holes for the rope to run through, an assisted locking tuber which has an integrated mechanism to create friction on the rope and assist in the breaking, and a fully assisted locking device that's going to have some variation of moving cam, that's friction based, and will help lock up the rope.Ī standard tuber device is going to be something like your basic ATC from Black Diamond or the Wild Country Pro Light.

Rock climbing atc belay device friction